Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Ilmu Ceduk

Here are some stuff I ceduk from a cool site. Hope the owner doesn't mind.

Springs
A car with soft springs will experience a lot of body roll in fast turns, but it will also dive very hard under heavy breaking and squat a lot while accelerating. Stiffer springs yield less grip on that end of the car, and conversely, softer springs yield more grip. On small, high-frequency bumps, stiff springs will make the car bounce, resulting in a loss of grip. So you need softer springs, because they allow the tires to stay in contact with the ground. On smooth tracks however, stiff springs are the way to go.

Damping
Damping should always be matched to the spring ratio: never run a very stiff spring with very soft damping or a very soft spring with very stiff damping. Damping that's a bit on the heavy side will make the car more stable; it will slow down both the vehicle's pitch and roll motions, making it feel less twitchy. Note that damping only alters the speed at which the rolling and pitching motions occur, it does not alter their extent. So if you want your vehicle to roll less, adjust the anti-roll bars, or the springs, but not the dampers. Something you can adjust with the damping rate is the speed at which the suspension rebounds: if a car with soft springs but hard dampers is pushed down, it will rebound very slowly, and a car with stiff springs and light damping will rebound very quickly.

So the car with the soft springs and hard damping will tend to want to continue turning when the steering is straightened. It will also tend to continue running straight when steering is first applied; it will feel generally unresponsive, yet very smooth. The car with firm springs and soft damping will be very responsive: it will follow the driver's commands very quickly and aggressively.

Droop
Limiting suspension droop has another interesting effect: you can use it to reduce traction rolling. A car with less droop will have a lower CG as it turns, which is exactly what you need in an eternal struggle against traction rolls. Often it's a better solution than using stiffer springs and harder tires; it's even better than reducing ride height or adding anti-roll bars.

Wednesday, April 05, 2006

Formula RCKoro

Rules & Regulations

  1. All cars must be equipped with Stock 23-turn motors.
  2. Race stops once leading car completes 10 laps.
  3. Driver must be as stated on the table and not macha-able.
  4. 1 season consists of 10 races.
  5. Last 3 drivers will be ayaq lengkong machas.
  6. Starting grid is determined by time trial (see below).
  7. Points given for 1st 6 drivers who finished e.g. 6-5-4-3-2-1.
  8. If you retire or did not finish the race, your point is 0.
  9. You will NOT be penalized for sabotaging, hitting other car out of sheer jealousy and cheating by crossing the curb illegally. In fact, we will love you even more.
  10. Race schedule must be agreed by at least >50% of racers.
  11. Race formation for one heat must be done using only 1 battery pack. One heat comprises of (a) 5 laps of time trial (b) 15 minutes rest (c) 10 laps of race.

Racers (Name - Freq - Car)

Iffil > Spektrum > Yokomo CGM
Baba > FM40.395Mhz > Yokomo MR4TC
Bob > FM75.670Mhz > Yokomo CGM
Hatta > AM27.195Mhz > Yokomo MR4TC
Yus > AM27.095MHz > Yokomo CGM
Yadd > AM27.075MHz > AE TC4
Shah > N/A > Yokomo CGM

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

Suckers

Iffil

Yokomo CGM - Novak GTB - Novak Velociti 4.5R Motor - Spektrum DX2 System - KO 2343 FET Dig. Servo - Protoform Mazda 6

Yokomo Rayspeed... DIY D-spec - Tamiya TZ23T - LRP IPC ESC - KO 2174 FET Servo - Sanwa M7 AM radio - Yokomo Altezza shell

Tamiya TA-02'R' ... R = Retired!

Bob
Chassis: Yokomo CGM, Motor: Tamiya TZ/RZ, Reedy ESC: Novak Cyclone SC Touring, Ko Propo VFS-1 Pro Remote: Futaba 3PK Receiver: Futaba HRS Servo: KPDS2343 Bodyshell: Ride Stratus Mk 2, Protoform Mazda6

Chassis: Kyosho Spider TF4 4WD (ROLLING CHASSIS ONLY)

Chassis: Team Associated TC3 Factory Team (ROLLING CHASSIS ONLY)

Hatta
Chassis: Yokomo MR4TC Specials, Motor: Tamiya TZ, ESC: GM, Remote: Sanwa Blazer, Receiver: Sanwa, Servo: JR Torque, Sanwa Bodyshell: Audi TT, Mazda6

Chassis: Tamiya TT01 (ROLLING CHASSIS ONLY)

Shah
Chassis: Yokomo CGM, Motor: Z-Zone 23 Super Stock, ESC: Nosram Tomahawk, Remote: KO Propo EX-5, Receiver: Schumacher Response 2, Servo: Schumacher Response 2 Standard Servo, Bodyshell: Mazda 6 Blue Blazer

Chassis: Tamiya TB-Evolution III (Limited Edition)(ROLLING CHASSIS ONLY)

Baba
Chassis: Yokomo MR-4TC Custom Motor: - ESC: - Remote: Sanwa MX3 FM Receiver: - Servo: - Bodyshell: -

Yus
Chassis: AE TC4 Motor: Yokomo T-Max 23T ESC: LRP F1 No Limit Remote: Sanwa Blazer Receiver: Sanwa Servo: Sanwa Bodyshell: Nissan Primaera

Chassis: Tamiya TA03-TRF Motor (ROLLING CHASSIS)

Yadd
Chassis: AE TC4 RTR Motor: Reedy Radon 17T ESC: LRP AI Reverse Remote/Receiver/Servo : AE XP2 Radio System Bodyshell: RTR Body Shell

Race Track


Makro, Seberang Jaya.

PISA, Penang

Thursday, March 02, 2006

Drift

Drifting 101: 7 Things You Should Know
The goal here is to de-tune your car to find the perfect middle ground between grip & slide. Here's how...

1) Stiff settings in the rear & medium in the front.
2) The harder your tires, the better.
3) Standard servo will do. More responsive, more “flickable”.
4) Smaller pinion or larger spur gear to keep the car spinning.
5) Drifting requires torque, not sheer rpm.
6) A light but stiff (no flex) chassis is beneficial.
7) Use stock motor with 20+ turns.